Munich with Friends, Old and New
Greetings from Munich, Germany! There’s something kind of magical about being in Bavaria this time of year. The air is cool and crisp, the smell of sausages wafts through the air, and you can’t go far without spotting someone in lederhosen. We actually passed through Munich last month on our layover to Porto, but we only had a couple hours to explore. We’re excited to be back, especially since we’re now here with our friends Alec and Ellie to celebrate Oktoberfest.
The festival runs for more than two weeks, but for our first experience we figured one full day would be more than enough. Of course, the beer and food are the main attractions, but we also wanted to dress the part. Buying traditional outfits isn’t exactly practical when you’re living out of a suitcase, so we rented them from a local shop. Squeezing into our lederhosen and dirndl instantly put us in the Oktoberfest spirit.
We got to the festival grounds just before noon on Friday, and it already felt like a giant carnival. The streets were lined with stalls selling sausages, candied nuts, gingerbread hearts, and more, while amusement park rides spun in the background. We headed straight to the Hofbräu tent, where a live band was playing and people stood on benches singing and chugging beer. The tent was already packed with groups who had reserved months in advance and others who had lined up since early morning, but we managed to snag a table right in the center just as another party left. We stayed there for a few hours, drinking beer, eating pretzels, and singing the traditional Oktoberfest song, Ein Prosit (“A Toast”), every 15 minutes or so. The whole scene was chaotic and joyful in the best way.
The atmosphere (and let’s be honest, beer) also helped break down any social barriers. Sharing tables with strangers quickly turned into chatting and singing together. We met a group of Italian guys who had driven overnight in a camper van, some Australian and American exchange students studying in Germany, a Dutch guy with strong opinions on U.S. politics, and a bachelor party from Ohio who were still mourning Joe Burrow’s turf toe. A completely random mix of people, but somehow we were all in the same place, raising beers and belting out Sweet Caroline and Take Me Home, Country Roads together. And that’s what made this experience so memorable.
Exploring Munich
Outside of Oktoberfest, we spent a few days wandering around Munich. One of our first stops was Viktualienmarkt, an open-air market in the heart of the city with rows of stalls selling everything from fresh fruit and flowers to sausages, pickles, and Christmas ornaments. After a week of mostly meat and beer, I treated myself to a freshly squeezed juice with extra ginger - a much needed detox. We then made our way to a deli stall and ordered a leberkäsesemmel, a classic Bavarian sandwich with a thick slice of warm, baked meat (kind of like a cross between bologna and spam) in a bread roll with mustard. It was so good we went back the next day for another.
Munich has a rich museum scene, and we spent some time exploring a few highlights. At the Lenbachhaus, we admired the world’s largest collection of artwork by the German expressionist group, The Blue Riders, while the Museum Brandhorst showcased some incredible modern pieces by Andy Warhol and Cy Twombly. Since Munich is also home to BMW (which I learned stands for Bayerische Motoren Werke, aka Bavarian Motor Works), we decided to pay a visit to the BMW Museum to learn about the company’s history and engineering innovations. Even as a non-car enthusiast, I enjoyed admiring the pretty designs from classic vintage cars to the latest concept models. Honestly, it left me wondering why car colors are so boring today. Is it too much to ask for a pastel lilac car?
On a more somber note, we spent an afternoon at Dachau, the location of the first Nazi concentration camp, which today stands as a memorial site. The visit was as harrowing as expected, made even more striking by the contrast of the sunny day and peaceful suburban surroundings. The most powerful moments came from reading the stories of prisoners and survivors, which left me with a sense of disbelief and horror at what humans could be capable of. One monument bore the simple inscription “Never Again” in five languages - a message that feels just as pertinent today, in a world still rife with conflict and division. It was a solemn experience that prompted reflection on both history and the present.
We wrapped up our week in Munich with an evening at the Englischer Garten, a sprawling park that runs through the middle of the city. My friend Katie, fresh off a redeye flight from New York, met up with us for a walk. At the park’s southern edge, we stopped to watch surfers take turns riding the standing wave of the Eisbach river - a mind-boggling sight in the middle of a major urban city. From there, we made our way to the Chinese Tower, a pagoda surrounded by a lively beer garden, where we caught up over pretzels and beers. It was the perfect way to wrap up our time in Munich - good food & drinks with even better company.
That’s all for now - next stop: the Italian Dolomites!
Talk soon,
Tanya
